A Subterranean Holiday

The shift in festivities brings a cautious relief to citizens like 31-year-old Kateryna Lavrova, who visited the underground Christmas tree with her five-year-old daughter. With many of the city's men, including members of Lavrova's own family, called to the front lines, traditional holiday gatherings are far from reach. Nonetheless, Kharkiv ensures that children are given a semblance of celebration and a respite from the conflict with a day off to enjoy the decorations and festive atmosphere. Ukraine, adapting after the Russian invasion, observes Christmas on December 24th for the first time, departing from the usual January 6th celebration.

Contrast of Desolation

The pining for normalcy in Kharkiv contrasts sharply with the reality in some of its districts. Saltivka, once a vibrant neighborhood with metro access, playgrounds, and shops, is now nearly deserted. Apartment complexes, heavily bombarded and fought over last year, are destroyed. 66-year-old Klavdiya Chubataya, who still lives in one of the damaged buildings with her two adult sons and a family cat, represents the loneliness felt by many elderly residents. Her grandchildren have fled, some as far as France, leading to a subdued, if not canceled, Christmas. The district's desolation is a harsh reminder that for some, like Chubataya, the festival lights have dimmed amidst the destruction and evacuation of younger family units.

Conflict Amidst Celebration

Kharkiv's underground Christmas, while unique, underscores the resilience of a city under siege. Families like Lavrova's find solace in each other and the community's efforts to preserve holiday traditions against the backdrop of conflict. Yet, it is also a poignant reflection of the hardships faced, as people like Chubataya spend the season away from loved ones in near-abandoned neighborhoods. As Ukraine navigates the complexities of war during a time of festivity, the contrast between communal resilience and individual hardship defines this year's Christmas in Kharkiv.